Auf wiedersehen, Wien

Bernardo Bellotto: View of Vienna from the Belvedere, 1759–1760.

I’ve just returned from a meaningful week-long journey to Vienna, and especially memorable was the generous hospitality I enjoyed from the utterly charming Arabella Fenyves and the most gracious Christoph Wellner at radio klassik Stephansdom, then a few days later from the gentlemanly John Haynes over a few glasses of wine at the Cafe Schopenhauer. This, along with a fine and meditative St. John’s Passion at the Stephansdom itself; visits to the Belvedere, the city museum (excellent, I must say), the Leopold Museum and the Peterskirche; and Sunday mass at the Hofmusikkapelle on my birthday made for a very special week. When I first visited Vienna many years ago, I was most intrigued by the city’s fin de siècle culture; now, it seems, I’ve gone fully Baroque. I make no apologies for this, though of course I’ll never abandon Schnitzler, Klimt and Schiele (not to mention Thomas Bernhard). One day I’ll write all this up.

One exhibit that I will miss, however, will be the Canaletto & Bellotto exhibition opening at the Kunsthistorisches Museum later this month. The painting at the top of this post will undoubtedly be front and center of the exhibition; the Museum web site notes:

The panoramic view looks north from the Upper Belvedere, the summer palace built for Prince Eugene of Savoy but purchased in 1752 by Empress Maria Theresia. The city unfolds as a sequence of monumental landmarks. Bellotto seems to render Vienna with near-cartographic precision, but subtly compresses distances and steepens towers to guide the viewer’s eye inward and upward. The result is a carefully constructed image of Imperial order, presenting Vienna as flourishing under the rule of Maria Theresa and Francis I Stephen.

Having just enjoyed that view myself from the Upper Belvedere, I can report that the charm of the landscape is undimmed after 250 years. Thank you especially to my lovely wife for the opportunity. Arabella, Christoph and John: I’ll be back.

Opernabend: Trouble at the mill

Leni Riefenstahl (yes, that Leni Riefenstahl) as Marta in Tiefland.

Tomorrow’s opera from radio klassik Stephansdom is Eugen D’Albert’s Tiefland, which premiered in Prague in 1903. A verismo opera nodding, as the genre does, towards a gritty realism, Tiefland is largely set in a village mill and is described in MusicWeb International as follows:

Tiefland tells the story of Marta, a poor young woman who is the mistress of the local landowner Lord Sebastiano. Sebastiano has money troubles, so is about to marry an heiress, and thus needs to expunge the local notoriety associated with keeping a mistress. He plans to have Marta marry his naïve shepherd Pedro, so that she can live nearby and still serve as his mistress. However, his plan fails when Marta and Pedro actually fall in love, and Sebastiano’s manipulation is revealed. The opera ends in a physical struggle in which Pedro strangles Sebastiano, and then escapes with Marta up into his beloved mountains, and away from the corrupting lowlands.

D’Albert, a noted pianist, was born in Glasgow in 1864 but emigrated to Germany, where he was a student of Franz Liszt. He wrote 21 operas, and his romantic history seems just as prolific as his musical career: he was married six times and died in Riga in 1932, where he was pursuing a divorce from his sixth wife. Tiefland also has the dubious distinction of being the only opera to be adopted to film by Leni Riefenstahl. Says the Wikipedia page for the opera: “The best-known film adaptation of the opera was by the German director Leni Riefenstahl, with Riefenstahl herself playing Marta. The film, begun in 1940, but not released until 1954, used Roma slave labor from a German transportation camp for some of the extras, many of whom were sent to Auschwitz before the end of the war.”

So: a true curiosity, more produced today in Europe than in the United States, and not often there. radio klassik Stephansdom will broadcast a 2002 recording of the opera, with the ÖRF Radio Symphonie Orchester Wien conducted by Bertrand de Billy. You can hear it tomorrow, February 23, at 2:00 pm Eastern time here.

In pursuit

Update, February 23: You can watch the first episode of In Pursuit here. I have also corrected the number of episodes of Philadelphia: The Great Experiment below.

Although I write a great deal about Vienna here, I was born in — and soon will be moving back to — Philadelphia. I don’t think it would do me any good to compare them with each other, but they must have more than my affection for them in common. In any case, I’ve written a great deal about Philadelphia in the past, and you can read that here.

I suppose that one of those traits is that each plays a unique role in history, roles which exhibit affinities: Vienna in Europe, Philadelphia in the United States. Sam Katz’s History Making Productions has followed up Philadelphia: The Great Experiment, its excellent 13-part series about Philadelphia, with In Pursuit: Philadelphia and the Making of America, an examination of Philadelphia’s place in history, from the establishment of the city in the seventeenth century to its genius loci today.

The first episode premiered last night at the National Constitution Center and begins streaming today; the others will follow shortly. Credit where credit is due: all ten episodes were directed by Andrew Ferrett and written by author and historian Nathaniel Popkin. You can read more about the series in this Philadelphia Inquirer article (gift link) by Mike Newall. The trailer for the first episode (and we still don’t have an answer to its final question) is below.